White leaf prototype

I took apart my silver prototype to test bending an extra SP 115 epoxy skeleton leaf.

Bowes, K., (2021). Redone prototype.

Platinum progres

The progress of making my platinum earrings. the image includes the tapered main vein, the placement of the side wires and the assembling just before adding the epoxy.

Bowes, K., (2021). Platinum assembling.

Different epoxies

I tested three different types of epoxy before I decided on one for my platinum piece because I wanted to find the clearest epoxy that will allow for the skeleton leaf to be viewed in focus while still being flexible. 

The three epoxies I tested are, as seen in the photos below: EPLOAM 2022, AMPREG 30 and SP 115. SP115 cured the clearest and was still flexible once heated to be shaped for my earrings. The SP 115 in image 1 was expired but in image 2 it is fresh and a proper example of the cured epoxy.

Bowes, K., (2021). Image 1- Three different epoxies.

Bowes, K., (2021). Image 2- Three different epoxies.

Second Epoxy Prototype

I completed my second prototype and it is exactly what I had in mind. 

Bowes, K., (2021). Second Prototype.

I added side wires as a setting almost to stabilize the leaf on the wire(see image below). The only small detail that I want to change is the clarity of the epoxy. The epoxy was slightly yellow and the green from the veins bled into the epoxy making it look murky.

Bowes, K., (2021). Three-quarter view.

Stabilizing the Epoxy

The bottom two side wires I drilled and weaved into the epoxy and looked very messy. The top two wires I forged the end and in a way set the epoxy to stabilize it to the hoop.

Bowes, K.,(2021). Testing 'setting' methods.

Bowes, K.,(2021). Stabilization.

Added veins

The leaf had a tendency to sill shift on the wire so I added wires, like the side veins, to stabilize the epoxy leaf to the silver wire.

Bowes, K.,(2021). Prototype 2.

Silver prototype

The aluminium was time-consuming and fragile. I wanted the appearance of fragility but not for the piece to fall apart. Instead, I placed my actual skeleton leaves in epoxy and used a forged tapered wire as the structure of my epoxy earring. 

I forged the thicker end of the tapered wire to stop the leaf from sliding off and to make the forging look purposeful I used it to add a catch for the earring. The catch will also help keep the shape of the wire changing from the weight of the epoxy leaf but the leaf is still unsteady on a single wireframe.

Bowes, K., (2021). Front view. 

Bowes, K., (2021). Prototype. 

Assembling

I wasn't sure how I was going to attach the epoxy leaf to the silver wire. The flexibility of the epoxy really helped with assembling my prototype.

Bowes, K.,(2021). Silver wire and Epoxy leaf.

Bowes, K.,(2021). Attaching one side.

Bowes, K.,(2021). Forming the epoxy.

Tapered wire

My first attempt I rolled the taper into the bar and forged it round. The forging took a long time as the wire kept wanting to stay on the flat edges.

I tried again but I used the draw plate to get a taper that is already round, thus reducing the amount of forging required. I still need to forge the wire to blend out the steps created by the draw plate. 

Bowes, K., (2021). Tapered wire. 

Testing flexibility

Testing how flexibility of the 1mm thick epoxy. The hotter the water the easier it is to manipulate but the ticker epoxy feels more durable. 

Bowes,K.,(2021). Epoxy flexability.

Revised plan

I was given a bit of extra time for the platinum competition.  Looking at the prototype I already had I knew I wouldn't have enough time to play with anodizing. I had 2 options, pay to get the mesh anodized or experiment with something else. 

Bowes, K.,(2021). Detailed leaf. 

Prototype

Bowes, K.,(2021). Silver and mesh 'leaf'.

My prototype was made with aluminium mesh and silver wire to replicate a leaf skeleton. I spent time meticulously folding in the mesh ends as neat as possible.

The silver work-hardens while weaving so shaping it to look more leaf-like, after fixing the edge, caused the silver veins to snap. This was concerning as platinum is a harder metal that does become very soft when anneal well but can work-harden faster than silver.

Doubling-up mesh

 The doubled-up mesh made the tiny 'veins' look more realistic and less ridged but the edges are very messy. Weaving the silver 'veins' wasn't easy and the main stem snapped so more prototyping is needed.

Bowes, K., (2021). Imitation leaf skeleton

Earring prototype

 In an attempt to create my own skeleton leaf, I made the veins out of silver and want to layer them with the mesh. I may even look at doing a double layer of mesh so the lines don't look so ridged.

Bowes, K.,(2021). Silver and mesh prototype

Plaiting silver wire

 I attempted to plait fine silver wire to make my own kind of silver mesh. I used to braid bracelets in my childhood but I really didn't enjoy braiding the silver as I struggled to stop the wire from kinking and differentiating between the wires. 

Bowes, K., (2021). Plat silver

Playing with paper

 Thinking about working with fibers/paper I folded a piece of paper into a strip creating layers, which is one of the competition design hooks. The lines on the paper reminded me of the aluminum mesh I had at home. The mesh is made from very fine wire and comes in sheets almost like metal 'paper'.

Bowes, K., (2021). Paper ring

Bowes, K., (2021). Aluminum mesh.

Strengthening the box

 The paper box needed strength so that it does not get squashed during transit. I had a few ideas on how to strengthen the box by making it from cardboard, inlaying the inside with card or metal. 

I decided to work with styrofoam to add protection to the piece and to give the box structure from the inside. I cut a slot for my piece to fit on its side instead of face-up as I found it easier to remove out of the styrofoam. I also cut finger spaces just to add some room to grip the piece when removing it.

The box kept its shape with the styrofoam, but it didn't want to stay closed, so I used a magnet to hold the box closed. I didn't want a magnet that would be too strong that might tear the paper and then my dad gave me a great idea to use a magnetic bookmark as they have the perfect strength to hold the paper. I had an old bookmark that had torn in two, so I used it. I attached one half in the flap of the lid and the other on the styrofoam inside the box and it seemed to hold pretty well, the dark edge on the edge of the box which can just be seen in the image below is actually the magnet.

Bowes, K., (2020). Paper box with styrofoam centre. 

 

Custom Box

The platinum competition takes place in Johannesburg which means our pieces must be couriered. Therefore, we need to have our pieces in some sort of box so that they will be protected during transit. I wanted to make a box using origami as an origami box would not take long to make and it can be customised.

I tried two different origami boxes a square ring box and a rectangular box that both have lids included in the design. I found tutorial videos for both boxes on YouTube which was very helpful. I decided to customise the rectangular box as my piece does not fit in the square box. I reduced the size of the rectangular box and printed my pattern on the paper so it fits with my piece, but I need to work on strengthening the paper box.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AU-2bmzL74o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6oM-Nqioyg

Figure 1 -Bowes, K., (2020). patterned on the box.

Figure 2 - Bowes, K., (2020). box with my prototype.

Platinum texture II

Melting the pattern/texture in platinum was in some ways different and the same as melting silver.  The platinum doesn't texture like silver does but it does bubble, like silver which was surprising. That means I need to forge the claws before trying to set them like I did with the silver otherwise they might break off.

The interesting thing about melting the platinum was in silver I drilled two holes and pierced between them to melt the longer holes, but this did not work in platinum. In the platinum, it just melted one hole and fills the second drilled holes. For me to melt elongated holes I had to push the metal with the hot flame.

I first thought I was overdoing it with the number of holes but once I finished and placed the enamel over it, I am very happy with it. This would set off anyone that has Trypophobia (the fear of clustered holes, bumps, or patterns).

Bowes, K., (2020). Enamel over the texture.

Bowes, K., (2020). Enamel viewed from the back.

Platinum Texture

I wasn't sure how the platinum would melt and if it would texture at all so my plan was to use a textured steel block to add texture to my platinum and then melt the holes for my pattern. I used a steel block I was given have had a deep grove on the one side and added more marks to create the texture (Fig.1). I did test the texture on a piece of silver as seen in figure 2.

I had a small extra piece of the platinum plate so I decided to test how the platinum would melt and see if it does texture in any way or not. The platinum melts beautifully (Fig.3) and I do not think I need the steel block texture at all. I just need to remember to reduced my flame and use the annealing goggles because with the melting goggles are too dark and by the time the metal had heated up enough for me to see the hole had melted too large. 

Figure 1 - Bowes, K., (2020). Textured steel block.

Figure 2 - Bowes, K., (2020). Textured silver.

 

Figure 3 - Bowes, K., (2020). Melted platinum.