Precious materials summary

Precious materials are valued under two functions status and redeemable wealth. These materials are rare and need protecting so quality is tested and controlled by hallmarking, a jeweller's mark can also indicate quality. Precious material's reputation is damaged by association with exploitation and the effects mining them has on the environment from the use of cyanide and mercury. Thus, jewellers conditioned against precious metals but in recent years this attitude has softened; a quarter of all existing gold is above ground and can be recycled. Traditional society resisted the change by not abandoning its goldsmith principals because precious metal properties like being malleable, non-corrosive and strength make it well suited for jewellery. Precious materials symbolise sentimental events like a tiara which Eleanor Barron made contemporary(Fig. 2). The 22carat gold is plating over silver, the ivory pattern is photo-etched (Fig. 1), resembling a slice of fossilised nature, this adds to Barron's design as she avoids smoothness, gloss and neatness. Barron's work is something I can relate to having natural imagery and I have considered working with etching. Precious materials are associated with lack of innovation being viewed as watered-down versions of 19th-century jewellery, but art jewellers use precious materials to stand out and overcome the doubts of those who felt innovation is only possible with new materials.

Figure 1-Ivory leaves

Figure 2- Tiara gold plated silver and beads